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peterlee 发表于 18-3-29 19:39 After not short of putting 200laps of testing over the weekend, here is my latest setup for outdoors aspahlt. It was HOT (40°C+) yesterday, but car still worked great. Now, I know it is a very big departure from a lot of other setups out there, but bare with me. And I have also referenced back to the kit setup (back-backs) and feel this is the right direction to be going. I don't agree with the super low front roll centre/less flex route that seems to be being run elsewhere, so I am working on a more conventional philosphy. Key points to note; Prototype chasssis and top deck, rear shock tower - I had Bezerk make up a carbon chassis and top deck for with more regular shaping (ok, I copied Yokomo..), however since then I've taken a dremel to it to actually increase the flex a little in the rear section, as the original was too locked in. This works in hand with not running the rear most motor mount screw (Screw in further locks down the car). It also had the steering posts moved back 1mm to increase the range of ackerman options. The top deck is changed mainly around the front, where there is more of a V than a T connecting to the bulkheads. The rear shock tower is same thickness, but with a revised shape with a lot more material to stiffen it up, helped to make the rear a little more consistent. Raised axles - 0.5mm between steering and castor blocks, and xray rear hubs. This is from the previous setup that I had shared previously, to help improve the roll-centre/camber gain relationship. Long wheelbase - As standard, the Mugen is short.. compared to other cars, your looking around 2mm shorter. So I've moved the rear arms back, and front arms forward. On track, it's better balanced and carries better corner speed, and helped to calm the naturally aggressive rotation. Just note, on the front, you'll want to compensate for the ackerman (move forward a position) and the castor shims (otherwise you'll increase castor too). Diff Fill - 1.5g of oil was much better than 1.3g. I had been struggling with getting heavier diffs to come in quick enough during a run.. however with the lighter oil, but more of it, this was much improved. Will be the go to for me now. Diff bulkheads raised 1mm - Ok, so this was a more subtle change than I expected... but again, comparing to other cars on the market, the Mugen diffs are low... very low. Even in the high position they are around 1mm lower than others. Having seen the last brand to try low go back to high pretty rapidy (Yokomo), I followed their lead and raised the axle bulkheads by putting 1mm shims underneath. The diff height is now much closer to the recognised standard. On track, a better flow (less stopping mid corner), so more corner speed. And quicker by a 10th on fastest and average lap. Doing this though, just remember to lower the upper camber link shims 1mm to compensate as well. Flex - Because of the front upper arm mounting, the front flex is shorter than the rear. If you look closely at the mounting holes for the top deck, the front is secured one hole further back in effect. So to even this up, mount the top deck only with the the 2 forward most screws. This provided a massive time gain (over 2/10ths!) which was very very surprising, but really helped to gain mid-corner bite. Shock angle - To improve the angles of the shocks, having played with this previously on my Xrays, I have added shims behind the mounts on the towers. The front shock is quite angled in standard, which does sharpen the reaction up. Putting a 3mm (would be 2mm with shorter wheelbase) shim behind the upper mount makes the shock more vertical, and this in turn smoothens the front out. On the rear, it's actually pretty upright as standard, so just added 1mm to compensate for the longer wheelbase. Bump Steer - 2mm shim under the outer steering joint. The standard position makes for easy to drive, but lacks mid-corner steering. I had been running 1mm, but 2mm seems to work even better. Again, about a 10th improvement. That pretty much covers it. I would actually encourage people to really give this a try. Obviously the bottom deck, top deck and rear tower are unique items (and I have plans for another revision yet!), but the rest can bolt onto the standard MTC1 easy (just use all the motor mount screws). I may be biased, but for me it has really improved the balance of the car, and help unleash its potential. |
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