英语四六级的水平是时候亮出来了
复制下来发成帖子，方便我自己查看学习http://image.rcfans.com/data/appbyme/app/data/phiz/default/01.pnghttp://image.rcfans.com/data/appbyme/app/data/phiz/default/01.png很难琢磨http://image.rcfans.com/data/appbyme/app/data/phiz/default/00.png感谢@huanghuan的转载After not short of putting 200laps of testing over the weekend, here is my latest setup for outdoors aspahlt. It was HOT (40°C+) yesterday, but car still worked great.
Now, I know it is a very big departure from a lot of other setups out there, but bare with me. And I have also referenced back to the kit setup (back-backs) and feel this is the right direction to be going. I don't agree with the super low front roll centre/less flex route that seems to be being run elsewhere, so I am working on a more conventional philosphy.
Key points to note;
Prototype chasssis and top deck, rear shock tower - I had Bezerk make up a carbon chassis and top deck for with more regular shaping (ok, I copied Yokomo..), however since then I've taken a dremel to it to actually increase the flex a little in the rear section, as the original was too locked in. This works in hand with not running the rear most motor mount screw (Screw in further locks down the car). It also had the steering posts moved back 1mm to increase the range of ackerman options.
The top deck is changed mainly around the front, where there is more of a V than a T connecting to the bulkheads.
The rear shock tower is same thickness, but with a revised shape with a lot more material to stiffen it up, helped to make the rear a little more consistent.
Raised axles - 0.5mm between steering and castor blocks, and xray rear hubs. This is from the previous setup that I had shared previously, to help improve the roll-centre/camber gain relationship.
Long wheelbase - As standard, the Mugen is short.. compared to other cars, your looking around 2mm shorter. So I've moved the rear arms back, and front arms forward. On track, it's better balanced and carries better corner speed, and helped to calm the naturally aggressive rotation. Just note, on the front, you'll want to compensate for the ackerman (move forward a position) and the castor shims (otherwise you'll increase castor too).
Diff Fill - 1.5g of oil was much better than 1.3g. I had been struggling with getting heavier diffs to come in quick enough during a run.. however with the lighter oil, but more of it, this was much improved. Will be the go to for me now.
Diff bulkheads raised 1mm - Ok, so this was a more subtle change than I expected... but again, comparing to other cars on the market, the Mugen diffs are low... very low. Even in the high position they are around 1mm lower than others. Having seen the last brand to try low go back to high pretty rapidy (Yokomo), I followed their lead and raised the axle bulkheads by putting 1mm shims underneath. The diff height is now much closer to the recognised standard. On track, a better flow (less stopping mid corner), so more corner speed. And quicker by a 10th on fastest and average lap.
Doing this though, just remember to lower the upper camber link shims 1mm to compensate as well.
Flex - Because of the front upper arm mounting, the front flex is shorter than the rear. If you look closely at the mounting holes for the top deck, the front is secured one hole further back in effect. So to even this up, mount the top deck only with the the 2 forward most screws. This provided a massive time gain (over 2/10ths!) which was very very surprising, but really helped to gain mid-corner bite.
Shock angle - To improve the angles of the shocks, having played with this previously on my Xrays, I have added shims behind the mounts on the towers. The front shock is quite angled in standard, which does sharpen the reaction up. Putting a 3mm (would be 2mm with shorter wheelbase) shim behind the upper mount makes the shock more vertical, and this in turn smoothens the front out. On the rear, it's actually pretty upright as standard, so just added 1mm to compensate for the longer wheelbase.
Bump Steer - 2mm shim under the outer steering joint. The standard position makes for easy to drive, but lacks mid-corner steering. I had been running 1mm, but 2mm seems to work even better. Again, about a 10th improvement.
That pretty much covers it. I would actually encourage people to really give this a try. Obviously the bottom deck, top deck and rear tower are unique items (and I have plans for another revision yet!), but the rest can bolt onto the standard MTC1 easy (just use all the motor mount screws). I may be biased, but for me it has really improved the balance of the car, and help unleash its potential.
200圈测试，然后看不懂
主要是他自己做了convert kit 底板 二楼板 还是山寨yokomo的
huanghuan 发表于 18-4-2 23:33 static/image/common/back.gif
主要是他自己做了convert kit 底板 二楼板 还是山寨yokomo的
所以想看看他的图片是怎么个形状 在周末进行200LPS测试之后，这里是我最新的户外ASAP设置。昨天很热（40°C以上），但汽车仍然运转良好。
现在，我知道这与其他很多其他设置有很大的差别，但是和我一起。我也参考了套件设置（背靠背），并认为这是正确的方向。我不同意那些似乎在其他地方运行的超低前滚中心/较少弯曲路线，所以我正在研究更传统的哲学。
要点注意事项;
原型车架和顶甲板，后震荡塔 - 我有Bezerk组成一个碳底盘和顶部甲板更多的定期塑造（好吧，我抄Yokomo ..），但自那时以来，我采取了dremel实际上增加后部弯曲一点，因为原稿太锁定了。这样可以在没有运行最后面的马达安装螺钉的情况下进行工作（螺钉可以进一步锁定汽车）。它也有转向杆移回1mm以增加ackerman选项的范围。
顶层甲板主要围绕前部改变，其中V的数量多于连接舱壁的T的数量。
后部减震塔的厚度相同，但修改后的形状有更多的材料来加强它，有助于使后部更加一致。
凸轴 - 转向和脚轮块之间0.5毫米，以及X射线后轮毂。这是我之前分享的以前的设置，以帮助改善摇摆中心/外倾角增益关系。
长轴距 - 作为标准，Mugen比较短..与其他车型相比，你看起来更短2mm。所以我把后臂向后移动，前臂向前移动。在赛道上，它更好地平衡并且具有更好的转弯速度，并且有助于平静自然的进攻旋转。只要注意，在前面，你会想补偿ackerman（向前移动一个位置），脚轮垫片（否则你会增加脚轮）。
差异填充 -1.5克油远远好于1.3克。我一直在努力争取在比赛过程中变得更重的差速器，但是更轻的油，但更多的是，这是大大改善。现在就去找我吧。
差距舱壁提高1毫米 - 好吧，所以这是一个比我预期的更微妙的变化......但再次，与市场上其他汽车相比，穆根差异很低...非常低。即使在较高的位置，它们也比其他人低1mm左右。看到最后一个尝试低点的品牌会回到很高的速度（Yokomo），我跟着他们的领先位置并在下面放置1mm垫片来提升轴舱壁。差异高度现在更接近公认的标准。在赛道上，更好的流量（减少停在中间角落），更多的转弯速度。在最快和平均的圈速上快10秒。
尽管如此，只要记住将上部曲面连杆垫片降低1mm即可进行补偿。
柔性 - 由于前臂安装在前部，前部弯曲比后部短。如果仔细观察顶层甲板上的安装孔，前部会有一个孔进一步固定。所以为了达到这个目的，只能使用2个最靠前的螺钉安装顶层甲板。这提供了巨大的时间增益（超过2/10！），这非常令人惊讶，但真正有助于获得中间角落的咬合。
冲击角度 - 为了改善冲击的角度，先前在我的X射线上玩过这种冲击，我在塔架上加装了垫片。前部冲击在标准上相当倾斜，这确实会加剧反应。将3毫米（轴距较短的2毫米）垫片放在上部支架后面，可以使冲击更加垂直，并且将前部平滑。在后面，它实际上是标准的挺直，所以只需加1mm就可以弥补更长的轴距。
凹凸转向 - 外转向接头下2mm垫片。标准的位置使驾驶更容易，但缺少中转弯。我一直在跑1毫米，但2毫米似乎更好。再次，大约10次改进。
这几乎涵盖了它。我真的会鼓励人们真的尝试一下。显然，底甲板，顶甲板和后塔是独特的项目（我还有另一个修订计划！），但其余的可以用标准的MTC1螺栓紧固（只需使用所有的电机安装螺钉）。我可能有偏见，但对我来说，它确实改善了汽车的平衡，并帮助释放其潜力。
柯博文 发表于 18-4-3 05:31 static/image/common/back.gif
在周末进行200LPS测试之后，这里是我最新的户外ASAP设置。昨天很热（40°C以上），但汽车仍然运转良好。
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原来你是机器人http://image.rcfans.com/data/appbyme/app/data/phiz/default/03.png
我每天都有空 发表于 18-4-3 10:25 static/image/common/back.gif
原来你是机器人
有谷歌翻译器啊http://image.rcfans.com/data/appbyme/app/data/phiz/default/39.pnghttp://image.rcfans.com/data/appbyme/app/data/phiz/default/39.png
https://kentech.wordpress.com/2017/11/07/mugen-mtc1-first-shakedowntestrace/
看你对mtc1这么执着，在给你个看看 9999999
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